HitLights Cool White LED Light Strip Kit, 16.4 Feet - Includes Power Supply and Dimmer. 300 LEDs, 5000K, 72 Lumens per Foot. 12V DC

I had a set of prehistoric puck lites which lasted a long time but finally crapped out. I was looking for LED’s but not puck lites and came across these in my search. Let me say this could be the most practical invention ever! These are bright, flexible, practical, stunning, simple and most important NOT EXPENSIVE. Now to the installation: 1-PREP PREP PREP!!!! You must clean the surface well. The tape on lites is superb and if it doesn’t stick it’s because you skimped on prep cleaning. I used a rag with alcohol and this is the absolute best choice. 2- PLAN PLAN PLAN!!! Before sticking or cutting or mounting visualize where you want you lites to start and end. Take into account switch and dc power placement(keep in mind the switch connects between dc power adapter and lites). I unrolled the lites and laid them along counter. Then turned them on to ensure no LED’s were defective(you don’t want to adhere them only to find out LED’s don’t work) 3- GENTLE GENTLE GENTLE!!!! Although these lites seems very durable it would be shame to damage them during install. So when pressing the lites to your surface use gentle pressure so they stay in contact with surface and the path you’ve chosen. Then once your you’ve completed your layout go back and use a bit more pressure to completely secure the lite’s tape to your surface. I made sure to press between the lites, NOT ON THEM and pressed on all portions of the TAPE itself. 4-CUT DO NOT CUT LITES TO YOUR LENGHT UNTIL DONE with your run and you have done your final tape press. FIRST UNPLUG FROM POWER SOURCE, then, as shown in pic, cut between 4 dots. 5- MOUNT SWITCH AND RETEST. Plug lites back into power source. Turn on switch and retest lites. You can choose to mount switch under the cabinet out of sight(switch has same 3m tape) or let hang freely.I bought 2 sets of cool white since I had to pass over a window between cabinets. I gave it 4 stars because there are basically no instructions. Especially about cutting the lites. Just used common sense. Good luck and hope you enjoy them.

I used these on the under side of my indoor hot tub to give nice accent lighting all the way around my hot tub. These do seem to be water proof, as none of the slashes from my hot tub have effected the lights. The lights look great and they have worked without any problems for several weeks now. I deducted two stars from my rating because just like on the non-waterproof Hitlight strips, the adhesive that comes with the roll is absolutely useless for securing the strips. There is no way you can mount these strips on the underneath side of anything and expect it to stay in place, period! Everyone who makes comments about these lights say this, yet Hitlights, just ignores all these same complaints, and continues to ship them out with the useless adhesive. I guess they just don't care that their customers HATE this about these lights, they must be getting enough sales even though they are pissing off most customers due to the useless adhesive they use... lolI used a hot stick glue gun to hold the strips to the under side of my hot tub, it takes a long time to do, since I have to put them in place, apply the glue in a spot and hold it until the hot stick glue cools, but it does work and will hold them in place just fine... but if Hitlights would simply use a 3M adhesive that actually holds, which I know 3M can do, because you can buy such double backed adhesives from them.... then mounting these strips would have taken me 10 times less time, than it did with me having to use hot stick glue to hold it in place.

Easy to install and has enough tape/ connector cables to do a full kitchen. Pro-Tip: Measure under-cabinet lengths first, cut tape to lengths. Leave paper backing on, plug first length into power, LED lights up, attach connector cable between 1st and 2nd lengths, make sure 2nd length lights up. If it doesn't light, just open connector with your fingernail and adjust until tape is straight and on the contact pads. The 2nd strip will light when straight. Repeat until you have first side of kitchen done. Mark desired distance from back with a pencil in a few places under the cabinets. Remove backing and attach LED strips next to marks. I had lips between cabinets requiring the included connector cables to span them, then I cut one cable in half to splice in 10 feet of jumper cable to get around my microwave. I repeated process on the other side and one kit had enough tape, but I stole a connector cable from a spare kit I had to complete the project. Note- The light will flicker if you don't plug it straight into power supply and turn it on once before installing dimmer module and firing it up. Pro tip #2: Buy a roll of "Fast cap double-sided speed tape" to secure cable connector ends under cabinet. That stuff is very sticky. Buy this one and, along with the roll of tape, you get a free steel ruler to stick on your workbench:  Fastcap Self-Adhesive 16' Measuring Tape Reversible Left or Right Read

I've used this to light up my cabinet for video and photography gear. The actual 'strip' is pretty thin and the LED protrudes out a little. There are no 'gels' or insulation on top like the LED strips meant for outdoor use. This is for interior only.The dimmer works great as it should and it's not insanely bright, but it does have pretty soft lighting which is great because it doesn't produce any harsh shadows when using as accent lighting.Cable management is a bit tricky with this as most LED strips are, but also the cable for the dimmer is pretty short. I wish that dimmer cable was a bit longer. So in my case, if I wanted to have the dimmer on the side of the cabinet and the LEDs inside of the cabinet, I have to drill a hole for the cable to pass through.Overall, it's been functioning as it should. May follow up on the review as I continue to use it.